Parque Kennedy

To begin preparations for ringing in the New Year, my roommate and I took a stroll to the main park in our district of Lima for some "chifa," or chinese food. Like most large capital cities around the world, Lima is the sum of various neighborhoods, districts, boroughs, and the like. I live in the district of Miraflores, which is a more touristy area known for being more upscale compared to the rest of Lima. There are trendy shops, restaurants, and malls that stretch all the way to the Pacific Coast, which with numerous flower-filled parks peppered within, create a beautiful and exciting part of the city to live in. Add in the famous "Calle de las Pizzas" or "Pizza Street," a popular stretch of bars and restaurants full of nightlife, and you now officially have my attention, Miraflores.

Kennedy Park, Miraflores

(As a quick aside for my trivia friends out there: The Battle of Miraflores was a part of the War of the Pacific, which involved Chilean and Peruvian forces duking it out in today's site of Miraflores. Back in the late 1800's as the Southern American countries were adjusting to a relatively new independence from Spain [which is worth noting they achieved together], they began squabbling over land, resources, and power. Sparing the full details, Chile came in, reigned victorious, and eventually took over the whole capital of Lima, burning buildings and ransacking monuments in their wake. Heathens! Anyhow, given this history Miraflores is known as the "Heroic City," which I don't fully understand since it was a battle that they lost (or maybe they are trying to be ironic...?). Maybe peruvians have a slightly different definition of the word "heroic" than I do, but I digress.....)

No visit to Miraflores would be complete without seeing the main park, Parque Kennedy. This lives up to the Miraflores name as its grassy fields are garnished with patches of colorful flowers, or flores (Mom, have you been keeping up with your Spanish classes?!).  Sidewalks criss-cross their way through the well-kempt grounds and a mix of modern shops and bars line the surrounding streets amidst old, impressive churches. There are three things I particularly like about this park besides its obvious natural beauty and serenity.

1. Its shape does not fit into a standard city block (read: non-quadrangular). Not quite sure why, but its unique shape makes it feel more natural and special to me.

2. The central "benches." I have not seen seating areas like this anywhere else in the world except here in Lima and I love them. These holes are like mini-amphitheaters in the center of the park, where people can get together and pass the day. There is another stretch of these benches in downtown Lima, which I plan to visit very soon. Last time I saw them in July people were performing music in them to hoards of people circled around. Very cool.

  A Perfect Circle

Cat nap

3. (thunder, Thunder, THUNDER) CATS (hooooooooo)!!!! Yes, I am by far a dog person, but admittedly do not have much of a problem with our feline friends and here in Kennedy Park there are plenty of them. I am still unclear on the how or why, but the park is home to a myriad of cats. It's as if you took Peter Pan and his Lost Boys, turned them all into cats, and set them loose on the Neverland of Miraflores. Cats done gone rogue all over this pastural paradise.

I have since decided to not ask any more questions on how or why these guys are allowed to roam around, as I think the mystery enhances my appreciation for them. All I can tell you is that someone is leaving out strategically placed tupperware full of Fancy Feast, that keeps these cats fed and happy (Exhibit A: Above feline napping in the shade).

Checkin' out the scene

Ready to pounce (stealth attack)

A Guatemalan Wedding

Anyone truly seeking to experience another's culture and traditions I feel would fall short of this goal without jumping feet first into a local wedding. Sometimes few and far between, the elusive "Local Wedding" is one of the trickier items to cross off that well-thought out Cultural To-Do List, probably somewhere between "Kill & prepare your own dinner (using only your bare hands)" and "Become someone's Godfather (term defined loosely)."

Fortunately, on the day before my departure, December 21, my good friend and roommate in Antigua was wed to his Guatemalan fiancé and I got my chance to partake in a Guatemalan wedding fiesta. Ok, so those of you keeping score at home might dock me points on the technicality that this was a US-Guatemalan fusion wedding, but for the record, the nuptials took place in Guatemala and the guest list was > 93% Guatemalan. Let's call it square.

For this blessed event, those of us who were in town and able to attend took to the Municipality building in downtown Guatemala City for a humble ceremony; however, not before a quick stop at a friend's home for brunch, mimosas, and photos. Carla and her family treated us to a delicious spread of fruits, foods, and *most importantly* champagne.

Groom Eric popping bottles

Thanks to Kat, our resident Eagle Scout (above photo, right), we were well-prepared for everything; be it a poorly stitched button on Eric's jacket or a travel sized toothbrush for a last second brush up. So, while Kat certainly contributed more overall with handy trinkets, I chalk up a small victory for myself for being the emotional support and pillar for Eric on this very special day in his life. 

At the Municipality we ushered Eric into the meeting room, only stopping for brief niceties with the bride's family, so as not to break tradition by spotting his wife-to-be before the service. The official conducted the service in Spanish and before launching into the final union of Eric and his bride, Albita, he orated eloquently on what marriage means to him, his family, to the future couple before him, and to all of us as a whole. He offered his words of wisdom and made sure Eric, Albita, and all of us understood the magnitude and sanctity of this very moment we were all experiencing. With the official words spoken and the proper signatures in place, Eric and Albita became one to rowdy applause, hearty hugs, and embraces from friends and family.

The celebration was then taken closer to the bride's hometown in the department of Escuintla where her family had arranged a beautiful reception for all to gather and celebrate the union of Eric and Albita. An hacienda was rented complete with tents for dinning, a buffet, and a dance floor, which I think was well beyond Eric and Albita's expectations as they had previously discussed plans to me for a "simple ceremony with perhaps a lunch afterwards for all to gather." 

During this reception family and friends gathered, shared words of thanks, enjoyed a delicious traditional dinner, and of course danced. Surprisingly, the celebration was not much different from what we traditionally find at a wedding in the States, except of course the choice of fare was local. However more generally, the traditional wedding staples were present: lots of food, drinks, dancing, music, and most importantly love & happiness all around.

Glad to see the cake fight tradition live on

As I look back on my last day in Guatemala I could not have planned it any better. I was able to spend my last moments with many of those who had been at my side for the duration of 2011 in Guatemala, which was an important year for me full of personal growth. During my final day I didn't think - even for a minute - about my departure from this land that had so quickly become my new home, but rather focused on the happiness of the wedding, which was far more important that day.

Congrats to Eric & Albita! You are going to do amazing things together, I wish I could come along for the ride!

Speak To Me

In Perfect Silence

¡Feliz Navidad!

Season's Greetings from south of the equator!

Christmas Tree in Miraflores Circle

Hi Santa!

Christmas Tree, downtown Lima

Christmas Eve Dinner, roasted chicken

The Arrival (Reprise)

Greetings and Happy Holidays from the Southern Hemisphere!

Larcomar Mall on the coast, Lima (dark ocean to the right with pier jutting out background-right)

It is strange for me to think that nearly 1 year ago I embarked on a journey to Central America by moving to Guatemala, "El Corazon del Mundo Maya," or the heart of the Mayan World. As the year of 2011 comes to a close and I take the time reflect on the great changes it brought to my life during this past year, it is amazing to think that I am already on to a new adventure here in Lima, Perú.

Perú, the land of the once powerful Inca empire, has me feeling as if I simply traded Maya history for Inca, but there is so much more to this land than that, which has become obvious within the first few hours here. For reasons mostly unknown to me, Lima has always called my attention and I am happy to report that after my first day settling in here that my instincts were correct.

Church in Parque Kennedy (Central Park, Miraflores)

Lulled by the sleepy comfort of Antigua, Guatemala I was beginning to feel that a more bustling metropolis was what I needed at this point in my life, which Lima most certainly is. Nestled in a nice apartment in one of Lima's finest districts, Miraflores, I was almost annoyed last night at the traffic buzzing outside my 5th floor abode as I laid myself down to sleep, but then I smiled and was happy to feel the life of the city, whether it interrupted my snooze or not.

Casino view from my apartment (literally across the street)

Despite the extra shuffle and life among the streets that comes with the holiday season, I can tell that Lima is alive whether in preparation for Saint Nick or not. During a 3 hour waltz around town I got to know my  new surroundings better while walking to the beach (yes, Lima is on the Pacific Ocean, which sits a mere 7 blocks from my apartment!) and around the central park and surrounding areas.

Church, Miraflores

Fortunately, Lima has much more to offer than the confines of the Miraflores district, which I hope to explore over the coming year. I will keep the updates coming complete with personal endeavors, photos, and anecdotes, sure to keep you all entertained, so check back often!

Gaining Perspective

While working for Habitat for Humanity this past year in Guatemala I have been exposed to some amazingly powerful stuff. I have made great friends with my many co-workers that range from American, Canadian, British, and local Guatemalan. Their diverse backgrounds, likes, dislikes, and personal stories have allowed them all to teach me more about themselves, as well as more about myself and others around me through increased interaction.

 

I have been fortunate to travel to many remote parts of Guatemala - a beautiful country rich in culture, history, and the human spirit – parts I may have never otherwise given a second thought to had I simply visited on a week-long vacation.

However, rich in natural beauty and smiles of locals all around me as it may be, Guatemala certainly has its crippling problems and ugly history (read: a 1980´s Civil War and genocidal atrocities of its indigenous peoples during dictatorial rule) that it carries with it. Fortunately, as a visitor here of one year I have been able to learn more about this side of Guatemala, taking into account the opinions of friends young and old, as well as friendly locals. And I say ¨fortunately¨, because no matter how grim the history or how dire the poverty, I feel enriched and empowered to know. To otherwise be oblivious to these realities only blinds us to the realities of how others are really living, and only leaves us sheltered in our comfortable bubbles we call life - pristine and safe from certain realities of the world that are valuable tools in teaching us how to empathize, how to appreciate our blessings, and how to love.

I am currently spending the week with a volunteer group of Habitat builders around Lake Atitlan in Guatemala, where I have had one such instance of knowledge and gaining valuable perspective. The Lake Atitlan area is highly indigenous and an area where Spanish is often the second language behind one of the many ancient, Mayan languages. Around the world, indigenous populations are grossly mistreated and misrepresented and Guatemala is no exception.

Today I took the Habitat group to visit a home where a previous Habitat volunteer group had helped build a stove for a family living in extreme poverty in October of this year. Habitat for Humanity has recently adopted a stove project in Guatemala to provide a safe and clean way of cooking to families living in extreme poverty, who otherwise cannot afford a new home. This simple ¨housing solution¨ makes a vast difference in the families´ lives, especially considering that respiratory illnesses are a leading cause of death in Guatemala, which is alleviated by these cleaner, more efficient stoves.

I am inspired to share this experience (even without photos) with those following this blog because I was so moved by what I saw and felt with this family that we visited. As we approached the small hut that must have been only 7x6 ft. in area, I knew before even entering that what I was about to see would impact me greatly for the rest of my life. Having worked with plenty of Habitat families before in Guatemala, I felt that I had nearly seen it all when it came to the question of poverty, but this brought things to another level for me. The small hut was made of corn stalks and sugar cane and the whole house was really what we´d just call a single room - really no bigger than most people´s bathrooms. The majority of the room was dedicated to their new stove at this point, which was already hard at work as I stepped inside. The family invited us in 3 or 4 at a time because trying to fit more in was otherwise impossible. Here the family sat awkwardly posing for pictures as the volunteers snapped photos of them, their stove, and their home (To no fault of the volunteers of course, we politely asked if the family minded). However, it was impossible to ignore the façade that the mother and her husband presented. A smile to cover up the years of struggle and pain. A smile to show us all how strong she was although I could see in her eyes she longed for so much more. As she held her sleepy 3 year old child in her arms while staving off the energetic 5 year old nipping at her heels, she told me a little more about the stove, how it worked, and how she loved making tortillas each day on it. I translated this to the curious volunteers as they took turns filing in and making space for one another, many too tall to even stand upright in the home. By the last group the mother could no longer contain her bottled up emotions. In what felt like an eruption of 20 years of despair and wanting nothing more than simple comfort, her eyes welled with a wetness that I do not think I will ever be able to forget. Despite the husband´s otherwise stoic demeanor, not even he could resist this moment to unburden his feelings as tears streamed down his face as well.        

I tried to console this complete stranger, who I now felt immediately connected to, with a simple hug. Through her profuse thanking of us and Habitat, I knew her tears were also filled with great joy as she informed us that the stove greatly improved her family´s life, which helped soothe me. However, despite this I couldn´t help but feel a deep sadness as volunteers began asking where the family of 4 slept and I had to tell them frankly, ¨On the floor next to the stove.¨

 Whatever the moment may be in your own personal life, I think we all need to experience something as powerful and moving as what I experienced with this poor family of four in their hut, no matter how depressing, disheartening, or lugubrious it might be. Reading about such tragedies, seeing graphic photos, or watching a powerful documentary will certainly move us and beg us to put our lives in perspective, but there is no substitute for such direct, personal interaction, which can be overwhelming.

I am a strong believer in people making their own decisions regarding whether or not they feel compelled to take action in the face of such issues and as such, I have no intention of ever preaching to others about which things they should or should not care about. However, I do strongly believe that educating oneself about and acknowledging that certain issues, problems, and injustices exist all around our world is a powerful tool not to be ignored. And while the remedies to these maladies may not be within our own reach, reflecting upon them and learning more about ourselves and those around us through that process will allow us to grow.

   

2011

It´s wild to think another year is nearly in the books. You would think that after experiencing so many New Year´s celebrations that I would be use to it by now, but as each year comes and goes I continue to be baffled each December 31st when that blinding ball of lights drops in Times Square and we roll into another year.

Certainly we have all had our own personal ups & downs, adventures, and reasons that made 2011 special or memorable to us individually, but it is hard to ignore the world events of the past year that have defined our race over these past 365 days. Some events already long forgotten and others to be remembered for eternity.

I found this link on another friend´s blog and really enjoyed it. I think the pictures are overwhelmingly powerful and worth a look back to reflect on the past year.

Powerful Photos 2011

 A woman cries while sitting on a road amid the destroyed city of Natori, Miyagi Prefecture in northern Japan after the massive earthquake and tsunami. (Reuters / ASAHI SHIMBUN)

I encourage everyone to take a quick look at these photos and a look back on what was 2011.

Wherever 2012 may lead us, I hope it is a success for all of you indicually and more peaceful for us all as brothers.  

Chuck E. Cheese (aka Showbiz!)

Have you had an inexplicable desire lately to get out on the Skee-Ball lanes and roll for that coveted, nearly impossible 100-point slot? Well, I suppose if you have then you have probably just downloaded some nifty iPhone app to curb this craving (as I imagine there is an app for everything under the sun these days).

However, if you're a purist like myself when it comes to good old fashioned fun and nostalgia, you will spare no expense to get the real thing. Enter Chuck E. Cheese's.

What gives? Where is the Italian Chef?!

Here in Guatemala there is not only 1, but a total of 2 Chuck E. Cheese's restaurants/paradises. They are actually a total of no more than 3 miles from one another, so someday I will need to research just why the Guatemalans feel the need for packing so much fun into such a small area - whatever, more power to 'em!

Chuck E. Cheese's is MAGIC!

Anyhow, as my time in Guatemala ends I've been inspired to knock off a few items from the To-Do List, while I can. I have been waiting since my arrival in January for the perfect reason/chance to go to Chuck E. Cheese's, however none arrived out of happenstance or luck, so I decided yesterday to take things into my own hands and visit Chuck & his friends simply because I can.

Right on, Chuck

Surprisingly, upon entering I felt as if I were back home. The lights, the pizza, the games...it was as if I was transported back to Miller Road in Flint, Michigan one cold Saturday night in 1995 for a friend's birthday party. Sadly, this particular Chuck E. Cheese's establishment lacked an essential element to the Chuck E. Cheese experience: the animatronic jam band fronted by Chuck. As a youngster I always looked forward to what seemed like impromptu jams by Chuck and his pals, especially the oversized Gorilla kicking out sick beats on his comically small drum set. (Note: As an adult I have come to realize that these "impromptu" jams were automatically scheduled every 30 minutes and commenced like clockwork. Even to the painful dismay of parents stuck watching no less than 5 of these repeat shows while their children only grew in excitement.)

Chuck and I (Christmas Edition)

For a whopping $20 I got my share of a medium pizza, Coke with unlimited refills (shockingly not common here in Guatemala), and 30 tokens, which was more than enough gaming for this 27 year old. My friend and I hit all the classics: Skee-Ball, basketball pop-a-shot games, stop the blinking light on "Bonus" (which in reality is bogus and impossible to win), and I even toyed with some original Pac-Man.

Play on, Players

So, if you are feeling lively and looking for something completely off the wall to do this weekend, go to your local Chuck E. Cheese's with friends. I promise, you won't be disappointed and the real life Skee-Ball will be so much better than that hand-held version you've been bragging to your friends about for the past 4 years.