Lago Atitlan

This past weekend I took advantage of some extra time off due to the Guatemalan Independence Day holiday and made a trip to Lake Atitlan. Being from the Great Lake State of Michigan, my affinity for lakes should come as no surprise and Lake Atitlan does not disappoint in its splendor.

Lake Atitlan: Volcanoes Toliman (left) & San Pedro (right)  

Having made the trip to Lake Atitlan two times prior, I felt more comfortable this time around navigating the ropes in the various pueblos and generally feeling more comfortable regarding the places to visit and the places to save for another time.

Atitlan splendor

Lake Atitlan is recognized as the deepest lake in Central America at an estimated depth around 340 meters and is surrounded by 3 volcanoes, giving it an astonishing, picturesque landscape. Caused by a volcanic eruption some 84,000 years ago, the lake itself is the result as the caldera left behind in the eruption’s wake filled with rainwater over many years.

Early morning on the dock

Around the lake lie many indigenous pueblos home to mostly Tz’utujil and Kaqchikel who maintain their traditional dress and language. Most popular of these villages are Panajachel, Santiago, and San Pedro and as such these towns are the more tourist-heavy and tourist-influenced. While the ancient Mayan traditions live on in the more secluded villages, the juxtaposition of these other touristy, coastal towns are stark. Bending easily and quickly to the pressures and fads that come with tourist influences, these towns rely heavily on tourism dollars and as such give me an uneasy feeling of “relaxation” while visiting.

Church in Santiago

On the one hand I am comforted by the serene landscapes of the lake, which seem forever picturesque and undisturbed despite the many new tourists that bank its shores year in and year out. Losing myself in its calming tide and in the small, sleepy towns on its shores are what I consider true relaxation. However, on the other hand these small, sleepy towns can often be prime examples of how tourism can transform an otherwise unknown dot on the map into a bustling hub of restaurants and souvenir stands. Not that these towns have gotten completely out of hand regarding their approach to harnessing much-needed income, but any visitor should be fully prepared to find streets with nothing short of 500 souvenir stands and touristy restaurant/bars side-by-side, heeding no space for much else (I’m looking at you, Panajachel). The other towns are still quaint enough to maintain a sense of self-identity, but you will certainly see flashes of Panajachel’s touristy "charm."