As we made our way to Machu Picchu I grew ever more excited as we rose in elevation through winding mountain passes and even caught glimpses of snow, which I hadn’t seen since leaving the US. With slight headaches ebbing and flowing with the changes in pressure and altitude I was happy to reach the next leg of our multiple interchange adventure to Machu Picchu. There are a few different routes to the lost ruins of Machu Picchu, which range in length and degree of difficulty for challenging your inner-hiker, but we chose the quickest route as I wanted to maximize my time at the ruins, as opposed to en route, and my time in Peru overall.
View en route to Hydroelectric plant on our way to Machu Picchu
An early morning microbus ride through the mountains, 2 stops afterwards in small towns to catch a taxi to the next checkpoint, and an arrival at the hydroelectric site before taking on the home stretch by foot made me feel a bit like I was a contestant on The Amazing Race. As we cruised by numerous hikers on foot in our taxis I almost felt a bit guilty for cutting what would be a 6-day hike into a couple hours cab ride. Happy with my decision to take the easy way in motor vehicle, we reached the hydroelectric site where we had to walk the remaining 2 hours along a set of train tracks to the town of Aguas Calientes, which sits below the mountain peaks where you’ll find Machu Picchu. With the friendly guidance of an Aguas Calientes local and later the accompaniment of a fellow traveler from Chile, we chatted along the path only with the occasional interruption from a passing train, but otherwise surrounded by the serene calmness of mountains, a flowing stream, and the forest.
Train tracks leading to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu
Strolling into Aguas Calientes after a 2 hour walk with all my belongings on my back was a welcomed treat. Within the first minute of carousing the streets it’s not hard to see that Aguas Calientes a) solely exists to cater to the thousands of backpackers looking to reach Machu Picchu and b) does well for itself feeding off of said invasion of tourists.
Hungry for Pizza? I’ve never been to Italy, but Aguas Calientes had to have had twice as many pizzerias in this small town than in all of Italy.
Aches & pains after a long trek through the mountains? Get your full body message on nearly every street corner.
Pizza while you get a rub down? Didn’t actually see it, but wouldn’t be surprised if Aguas Calientes is home to the first Pizzeria Massage Parlor. After seeing so many of each of these establishments they truly did begin to blend together.
Having settled into a hostel our only task for the evening was to get tickets in order for the next day’s visit to Machu Picchu. While the average traveller should not have any trip-ending meltdown with this task, one should prepare themselves for plenty of running around and a small dose of frustration. Unfortunately, there is no 1-stop-shop for all your Machu Picchu needs, but rather a series of stops in order to put your trip in order.
As I would hate to spoil the excitement for future travelers, I won’t divulge all of my insider tips, but I will offer one: turn off your judgment of common sense and refrain from asking why you need to visit three different sites for each your park entrance ticket, your bus ticket, and a train ticket to skip town afterwards – instead just roll with the punches. Having to visit three separate ticket offices is not in itself the most frustrating thing, but rather having their locations strategically spread apart as far as possible in opposite corners of the town is a bit ridiculous.
Anyhow, looking at the silver lining, I got to know the small town of Aguas Calientes inside and out on my treasure hunt for tickets and was ready to take down Machu Picchu the next day. A traditional meal of rotisserie chicken, salad, french fries, and Coca-Cola while watching a Peruvian national game was the perfect way to cap off the evening.
The ruins of Machu Picchu are indeed impressive and blessed with a clear, sunny day we were able to hike around the premises until our hearts were content (or rather until my heart was content as it was trip #3 for my Peruvian friend). The site is home to a lot more than what you find in typical photos. Enough ground to cover to keep one busy for hours, the most impressive views are indeed near the center of the site, but varying trails lead off higher into the mountains with more ruins and impressive views (and unimpressive views as we did pass a tourist relieving herself in plain sight just a few feet off one of these trails next to a tree. Note: there are public bathrooms on the premises when you first enter the park, please use these).
Machu Picchu in its 100th year since "rediscovery"
Machu Picchu: 15th-Century "Lost City of the Incas," sitting at 2,400 meters above sea level
Machu Picchu (brown spot center left) from the Sun Temple higher above
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