Friday, August 19, 2011

South of the Equator: Part II


After some time exploring Paucartambo and the outskirts of Cusco, we returned to downtown Cusco before heading to Machu Picchu. Settling into a hostel around San Francisco Plaza (just a block or two from the main city square, Plaza de Armas) I took to the streets to do some exploring. The city was cool and gusty as it sits high above sea level and is surrounded by the Urubamba Valley of the Andes mountains. The downtown area is not too crowded, which is a relief from what one usually finds in large cities, the streets are clean, and the surroundings of buildings, churches, and homes give it a charming colonial feel. Not as colorful - and certainly larger in size - Cusco is unique from my current home in Antigua, Guatemala, but in certain ways it is similar.

"Viva El Peru" in the mountains surrounding Cusco (note: red & white Peruvian flags)

One such pleasant difference was one of the main markets I visited, which was light-years beyond what I’ve experienced in Guatemala. While it was equally as charming with small vendors selling their goods, ranging anywhere from scarves knitted with Alpaca wool to a fresh block of cheese, the overall organization and tidiness in Cusco was impressive. Whereas the local market here in Antigua is a labyrinth of vendors hawking their goods, the market I visited in Cusco had signs (SIGNS! What a novel idea…) indicating where one could find their desired goods rather than wander around aimlessly in hopes of stumbling across something. The market in Antigua is exciting and alive the first few times you visit it, but the novelty soon gives way to frustration as you are left to navigate the labyrinth time and time again searching every dark nook and cranny for that one sweet, old lady who sells the perfect tomatoes.

Traditional garb in Cusco (note the baby lamb in the child's arms)

Cusco also reminded me of Antigua in that it is very well equipped to cater to the mass influx of tourists that traverse its streets. Every other establishment seemed to be a restaurant, cafĂ©, or bar for vacationers to sit down and spend their money. As we strolled the streets we were never a far cry from a shop owner beckoning us to try their delicious desserts or baked guinea pig (yes, I said guinea pig – apparently a local delicacy in Peru).

Church in Plaza de Armas (note again the flags - step it up America!)

Another thing I noticed about Cusco, and Peru in general, was their patriotism. As a full-blooded American, this is something I can get down with and respect wholeheartedly. In all the countries I have visited I have found similar vigor among the populace in loving their own country, but there was something more to it in Peru, which I enjoyed. It seemed no matter where I went there was always a Peruvian flag, and more often than not, there were multiple flags. Nearly to the point of overkill, the government buildings, town squares, and lamp posts lining the streets seemed to always be draped in the nation’s flag.

Plaza de Armas, flags, and homes (can you see the cross on the top of the hill?)

Unfortunately, time only allotted for one full night in Cusco and then a quick pass through for dinner after returning from Machu Picchu later, but overall Cusco was an impressive city. I loved how it felt low key, yet at the same time had a vibrant downtown full of people so I never felt completely alone or bored. Hopefully I’ll be able to explore this town in the mountains more in the near future.

1 comment:

  1. A bit disappointed I didn't try the G.Pig, but there is always next time! Sounds tasty given your description, thinking maybe it could even catch on as a new Thanksgiving tradition in the States...

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