Monday, August 29, 2011

South of the Equator: Part IV


After an exciting trip to Machu Picchu we routed through Cusco for a meal and took advantage of our momentum and kept on moving towards the Bolivian border rather than spend another night in Cusco. Hopping on a 10 PM bus that took us overnight to the city of Puno, a Peruvian city on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca.

Lake Titcaca

Knowing beforehand that as an American acquiring a Bolivian tourist visa would cost me $135 (thank you Evo Morales, George Bush, and I suppose Hugo Chavez!), we kept moving into Bolivia and decided to spend as much time as possible there to make the cost of the visa worth it. Fortunately, once inside of Bolivia I found that things were relatively cheap, making the pain of the pricey visa easier to swallow.

Rock Formations, Lake Titicaca

Lake Titicaca is, simply put, absolutely beautiful. Being from the Great Lake State it comes as no surprise that I was most excited for this site and it did not disappoint. While Michigan’s Lake Superior is far larger than Lake Titicaca, something about the scenery around Lake Titicaca made me feel like it was nearly the size of an ocean. Perhaps it was catching a glimpse of the Andes Mountains far in the distance, looking miniature over the horizon beyond the crisp blue waters of the lake.  Looking out into the sky one would momentarily mistake the snowcapped giants for clouds as their white, wispiness blends right in.

Andes Mountains in the background of Lake Titicaca

A bus ride into the lakeside town of Copacabana had us on the shores of Titicaca and after a quick street side lunch and trip to the market to load up on simple ingredients for future snacks and lunches, we hopped on a ferry to take us to La Isla de Sol. A small slice of land stranded in among the vast blueness of Titicaca, this island is home to a small indigenous population, 1 or 2 quaint pueblos, and as of late appears to have seen its fair share of tourist. Upon arrival we had a local guide walk us around the southern portion of the island telling us a bit more about the indigenous history, showing us a small ruin, and enchanting us with his comedic charm that has no doubt been refined over many island run-throughs with other tourists.

Patron sitting with me having lunch at a random street vendor in Bolivia. Go Blue!

Finally reaching a hostel for the night was a welcomed treat after hauling our belongings on our backs throughout the hilly terrain. Wanting nothing more than decent shelter from the chilling winds off the lake and a hot shower after an overnight and daylong trek to reach Bolivia, we sprung for a pricier room with amenities without a second thought. As nighttime set in, it surprised me to find that while the daytime had a strong, warm sun blanketing La Isla de Sol, the island was left cold and windy when the sun set. I am talking long underwear, sweatshirt, and 10 blankets (literally) while you sleep in your bed kind of cold.

Quaint beach, Lake Titicaca

Rewarded with a homemade continental breakfast for making it through the cold night, we were happy to eat all we could before taking our belongings in backpack on a 2 hour trek to the north side of the island. The walk northward was majestic as the hilly terrain and overall small shape of the island allows us to catch amazing views of the lake surrounding the island all around us. A few small ruins dot the northern end of the island, but we found the walk and views en route were much more impressive than what the ruins had to offer.

Ruins: Sacred Table

After a nice hike we settled into the pueblo at the northern side of the island, which was warmer than what we experienced the previous night as we were at a lower altitude, but still packed a bit of a chill at night. A small slice of land separated our hotel from the lake, which was home to plenty of local livestock. Cows came and went as they pleased and much to the dismay of their owners often found themselves in the lake for a dip and sip of water. How does one then get their cow out of the lake, you might ask? Well, simply throw large rocks at it – at least that’s what these locals did.

Pigs, donkeys, sheep, and horses were also spotted casually making their way around the island shepherded by their owners and/or owners’ kids. Don’t ask me where they went to or where they called home, because after walking that whole island I did not once come across anything that remotely resembled a pasture or field that I am primed to thinking would be suitable for such animals. 

View from the hostel, donkey tied to post

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