Acatenango (middle peak) on a bus ride from Antigua
Especially if you’re not an avid hiker, Acatenango is not to be taken lightly. I’ve gone on a few day hikes through Shanendoah National Park outside of the Washington DC area as well as a steep 3 hour hike to the top of Volcan Pacaya (2,500 meters, by the way for those of you keeping score at home), so I had a little hiking experience to get me through the beast of Acatenango.
Our trip started at 4 AM in Guatemala City as I was told we would be picked up by my friend and on our way out to Chimaltenango after a quick stop by her house to gather everyone and their belongings. Not surprised by the tardiness given they all run on Latino Time, I stayed calm as we departed one and a half hours beyond schedule. Not without the usual “oops, I forgot something…” we had to make a return trip home before finally setting off towards the volcano for good.
Upon arrival to Chimaltenango (the city where Volcán Acatenango rests), we were greeted by a truck of 10 soldiers who accompanied us on a drive to the base of the volcano. We parked our cars, gathered our packs and began what would be a hellish trek to the top.
Our security detail once at the top of the first volcano peak, Yepocapa
Soldiers marching as we made our way towards the volcano (masked in the clouds)
The beginning of the trek took us uphill through the volcano’s forest for a good 2-3 hours before reaching the tree line and stopping for lunch. Always one to pride myself on packing light, I took down some snack foods (granola bar, peanuts, juice box) and mooched off my well-prepared friend who was the star of the lunch hour for having brought a jar of peanut butter.
Roughly another hour upwards after lunch and we made it to a small cabin along the trail that marked the beginning of the end for me. Here we took a small break and you could begin to see where the volcano finally reached its end, although what looked to not be so far, was in reality a steep 2-3 hour climb to the first crater and easily the hardest leg of the hike. With constant reminders to not quit on myself, I hiked on through the fog (at this point we were level with the clouds) despite constant blows to my determination. Never having climbed the volcano before, it was impossible to know just how much further we had to go, which became very taxing mentally.
Looking up into more clouds and thinking that I'd finally be done after this last hour push up the volcano side, proved to be a tease at least 3 different times during my homestretch. Another hard push up the trail would reveal a new view of the top and with it another long stretch of trail, sitting up high and taunting me down below. Foolish for believing the accompany soldiers who would remind me “ya casi” (“we’re almost there”), I began to question why anyone would subject themselves to this. However, not one to let up I continued on and was 2nd to reach the top behind a young spry soldier who led the way.
View of the final stretch to the top and steep incline
At the top we were greeted with winds and magnificent views of the clouds all around us. Having forgotten that the volcano has 2 peaks, I was surprised to see more volcano ahead of me when reaching what I had thought was the top. Relieved to have reached out final point for the day, I was a bit unsettled knowing that we would soon have to tackle another tough climb.
We set up camp for the night and I was surprised by how windy and cold it was (as my Canadian friend put it in regards to the cold, “Is this Canada?”). Unfortunately, more surprising than the cold were the tents we were to use for the night. I failed to snap some photos, but we were using old-school canvas, army tents lent to us by the soldiers who accompanied us, which I can only assume have been in use since 1910.
My friend and I balled up in our respective sleeping bags wearing as much clothing as possible for our 8 PM bed time and braved what can only be described as the worst, most uncomfortable sleep of our lives. If it wasn’t the unforgiving lava ash underneath us, or the unbearable cold, or the pair of friends snoring all night in the tent next to us, it was the worst headache I’ve ever experienced in my life due to the change in altitude that would not allow me to fall asleep.
Saved by some ibuprofen brought along in our first-aid kit, I managed to get a little shut-eye, but vowed I would not join the others for their 5 AM wake up call to climb the highest peak of the volcano that loomed over us. However, as everyone started shaking a leg at 5 AM with the glow of flashlights that reminded me of lightsabers, I realized I would not be able to live with myself for being that guy who sat this one out and got so close to the top, but didn’t finish the hike. Under the starlit sky we descended from our crater and made our way over to the main peak for an early morning climb.
Sunrise view from the top of Acatenango
The experience gained from the previous day made this climb a bit more manageable mentally, but nonetheless was exhausting. The final stretch leading to the top was a narrow trail of ash that not only dangerously hugged the rim of an old, blown-out crater, but was loose and slippery making each step potentially deathly as well as minimal towards reaching the top. Despite not having to carry heavy packs during this jaunt, the incline was demanding and nearly broke me. I’ve named it the Trail of Tears as it literally brought our 12 year old group member to tears as he pushed on with the support of the rest of us. At this moment I took a second to reflect on what I was doing at his age back in June of 1996 and realized he was a lot more of a man than me compared to my days of sitting in my air conditioned house watching Saved By The Bell reruns and eating ice cream.
Screech
Despite the hellish climb, we made it to the top and were rewarded with the most impressive views and sunrise that I have ever seen. The soothing scenery that engulfed me at what felt like the top of all of Guatemala made the exhausting trip worth it. After conquering the highest peak of Atacanango, down was the only direction to go and so we packed up and descended the volcano.
View from Pico Mayor (our campsite in the lower left corner, Low Peak)
Volcan Fuego next door erupting
Although faster than climbing up (took us nearly half the amount of time), the descent is a workout just as intense, if not more than the way up. Having to painstakingly take each step with caution (lest ye slip & slide down the steep inclines) wears on the feet and thighs. Equally as painful is the mental concentration needed with each step. However, the excitement of making your way off the volcano and back home to the comfort of your bed helps make the descent that much easier.
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